Valencia - Beautiful Garden City

One of the first things you notice about Valencia, a port city on the orange blossom coast of Spain, is the gardens spread throughout the city.  Arriving the beginning of June, the Jacaranda trees were all in full bloom, covering the city in beautiful blue/purple flowers.  Interspersed among the Jacaranda were striking pink and white and yellow flowering trees, Valencia orange trees, and blocks and blocks of brightly coloured flowering boulevards.

JACARANDAS PAINT THE CITY WITH A BLUE/PURPLE BRUSH

At one time the city was split by the Turia river, which would often flood its banks.  After a particularly tragic flood in 1957 which destroyed or damaged many of the majestic old buildings and caused the death of almost 100 people, the city fathers decided to divert the river around Valencia.  After some debate on what to do with the 9 kms of dry river bed left running through the center of town - a freeway was suggested - the city fathers decided to turn the entire thing into a park for the people.  Full of ponds, fountains, walking paths, flower gardens, playgrounds, artworks, cafes and sports facilities (football field (soccer), track, climbing walls), this lovely park runs right from the downtown area to the City for Arts and Sciences which contains a huge aquarium complex, an imax, a science centre, a performing arts centre and a lovely sculptural garden.

ENTRANCE TO THE GARDENS AT THE CITY OF ARTS & SCIENCES

We spend an enchanting 4 or 5 hours at the Oceanografic (aquarium), which is the largest in Europe and still had to leave before visiting the shark centre as the museum was closing.  Here are just a few of the entertaining sights ...

STARFISH TRYING TO ESCAPE

THIS ONE GOT LEFT BEHIND

WHAT BIG FEET THIS GUY HAS - PERHAPS ET IN DISGUISE?

THE CAVE MONSTER WE ESCAPED FROM AT GROTTE DEMOISELLES (SEE PREVIOUS BLOG)

THIS BIG GUY REFUSED TO GO IN THE WATER - SHE FINALLY GAVE UP AND JUST GAVE HIM HIS FISH

The downtown area of Valencia is lovely, filled with stately old buildings, cathedrals, streets paved with marble or tile, fountains, and many, many sidewalk cafes.  The Plaza de la Virgen contains, among other things, the cathedral of the holy chalice.  This is purportedly the chalice used at The Last Supper.  One of 3 major contenders (the other 2 are in Jerusalem and Genoa), this chalice is make of dark red agate and is reported to have the most likely claim to authenticity.  We didn't get to see it as they booted us out of the cathedral to lock up for the afternoon lunch and siesta time.

THE CHURCH OF THE CHALICE

Seeming out of place and yet strangely appropriate, right in the middle of the plaza surrounded by cathedrals is a giant fountain of Neptune surrounded by eight naked women.  Completed by a local sculptor, Silvestre Edeta, it represents the Turia River and its eight irrigation ditches.  The pigeons delight in playing 'king of the castle' and fighting over who gets to sit on Neptune's head.

NEPTUNE'S FOUNTAIN IN LE PLAZA DE LA VIRGEN

 In Spain, everything closes from around Noon to 2:00 for lunch, then remains closed until 4 or 4:30 p.m. for siesta time.  We decided to enjoy sangria and pizza at one of the sidewalk cafes and enjoy the surroundings before heading home for siesta.  This band of street musicians showed up as we were eating and were very entertaining to watch.  Unfortunately, just as we were finding Euros to tip them, the Policia pulled up and made them leave the square to the hisses and boos of the lunch patrons.  You can spot them behind their car on the left of the picture waiting for the guys to finish their first number.

ENTERTAINING STREET MUSICIANS - BEFORE GRUMPY POLICIA ARRIVED

In addition to gardens, beautiful buildings, tapas, sangria, and really inexpensive beer and wine, Valencia has one of the top 10 beaches in Spain.  Wide and very clean with warm clear water, this is where Ken liked to spend his afternoons doing what Pat and I call the 'booby walk'.  One afternoon he reported counting 110 topless women on his beach walk, or 220 boobies.  He is usually so exhausted by the time he gets back he has to lie down for a nap - perhaps this is the reason for siesta time in Spain. 

 

OUR WIDE CLEAN BEACH WITH FIRST HALF OF LAST SUPPER SAND SCULPTURE

Pat and I enjoyed monitoring the daily progress of the talented sand sculptors.  Here's the first half of The Last Supper in progress - hopefully they'll finish all twelve figures before we leave.  The sculpture representing Valencia is also quite impressive.  Notice the masts for the hundreds of sailboats in the marina behind the sculpture.  There is also a huge ferris wheel to the side, and many (overpriced) beach cafes to sit and enjoy the sights, along with tapas or paella and a cold beer or glass of wine.

VALENCIA SCULPTURE WITH SAILBOAT MASTS IN THE BACKGROUND.