ANOTHER PERFECT DAY IN SUNNY SPAIN

The view from our terrace.

As we sit on the terrace watching the morning sun set the Mediterranean sparkling like a million sequins, we reflect how lucky we are to be back in sunny Spain.  The little beach town of Mojacar (Mo-hawk-ar) may be one of our favourite places to visit and will be difficult to leave.  It is not unusual to pass the entire morning on the wide sunny terrace enjoying our coffee and the ambience before suddenly realizing that as the lunch hour approaches we need to get moving and run our errands before the shops close for siesta.  After a quick burst of energy to replenish our supplies, we take our lazy bums to lunch in one of the many excellent restaurants and cafes along the beachfront road running through Mojacar Playa.  There we can spend a couple of hours relaxing over a delicious three course meal (8-11 euro including wine, beer or soda) while visiting with friends or people watching along the promenade.  Then home for a short siesta before sharing tapas and a pint on the terrace or back down along the promenade.  It's easy to socialize here as everyone is relaxed and just strikes up a conversation with the next table at the little cafes and pubs.  

The beautiful Mojacar Playa as seen from one of the Moorish Watchtowers along the coastline.  Yes that is a two-way road the car is navigating.

Dinner in Europe is usually enjoyed anytime between 8:30 and 11:00 p.m. when everyone has finished their evening stroll or sunbathing on the beach, and can last several hours. It is again a three course event with wine or Sangria, or a pint for the many Brits who live here.  We mostly skip the dinner hour as we usually have leftovers from lunch or are still full from the late afternoon tapas. It's a wonder Europeans remain so thin.

One of the Moorish Watchtowers not far from town.  These were built along the Almeria coastline in the 12th and 13th Century and could communicate signs of invasion from the sea.  Yes we made the climb.

With all the relaxing and eating and socializing, you would think we wouldn't have time to do any sightseeing. Surprisingly we've managed to do a lot.  There are countless towns and sights all within a hour's drive from our sleepy little corner, each with their own personality and charm. Our friends Dick and Anita visited last week from Portugal and we managed to explore the cliff top Mojacar Pueblo; 

Mojacar Pueblo

Navigating the streets in Mojacar Pueblo.  This is how they stay so slim.

and marvel at the old stone houses hanging over the straight, rocky cliffs of Sorbas. 

Sorbas - notice the house hanging right off the cliff on the right. This is a zoom lens - the village is up a mountainside

We shopped the enormous Sunday market at Villaricos (where I think Anita replaced her entire wardrobe for around 50E); 

Waiting for Churros at the market.

The market drugstore.  A cure for whatever ails you.

and we rediscovered the seaside village of Carboneras where Omar Sharif filmed parts of Laurence of Arabia.

Statue of Laurence of Arabia in Carboneras. Omar Sharif visited in 2012 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the film.

We navigated the rugged cliffs of the 'Siren's lighthouse' in Cabo de Gato near Almeria and tried not to get blown off into the sea. 

The "Siren" lighthouse at Cabo de Gato.  As this is the southern tip of the Almeria district of Spain, many shipwrecks would occur along the rocky coastline while sailing out of the Mediterranean towards the Atlantic.

A seaside villa at Cabo.

A fun afternoon was spent at Fort Bravo, otherwise known as Texas Hollywood, where the spaghetti westerns were made. That experience is a post in itself.  Needless to say our evenings have been spent watching old westerns with a more discerning eye.

Hasta Luego Amigos!

Valencia - Beautiful Garden City

One of the first things you notice about Valencia, a port city on the orange blossom coast of Spain, is the gardens spread throughout the city.  Arriving the beginning of June, the Jacaranda trees were all in full bloom, covering the city in beautiful blue/purple flowers.  Interspersed among the Jacaranda were striking pink and white and yellow flowering trees, Valencia orange trees, and blocks and blocks of brightly coloured flowering boulevards.

JACARANDAS PAINT THE CITY WITH A BLUE/PURPLE BRUSH

At one time the city was split by the Turia river, which would often flood its banks.  After a particularly tragic flood in 1957 which destroyed or damaged many of the majestic old buildings and caused the death of almost 100 people, the city fathers decided to divert the river around Valencia.  After some debate on what to do with the 9 kms of dry river bed left running through the center of town - a freeway was suggested - the city fathers decided to turn the entire thing into a park for the people.  Full of ponds, fountains, walking paths, flower gardens, playgrounds, artworks, cafes and sports facilities (football field (soccer), track, climbing walls), this lovely park runs right from the downtown area to the City for Arts and Sciences which contains a huge aquarium complex, an imax, a science centre, a performing arts centre and a lovely sculptural garden.

ENTRANCE TO THE GARDENS AT THE CITY OF ARTS & SCIENCES

We spend an enchanting 4 or 5 hours at the Oceanografic (aquarium), which is the largest in Europe and still had to leave before visiting the shark centre as the museum was closing.  Here are just a few of the entertaining sights ...

STARFISH TRYING TO ESCAPE

THIS ONE GOT LEFT BEHIND

WHAT BIG FEET THIS GUY HAS - PERHAPS ET IN DISGUISE?

THE CAVE MONSTER WE ESCAPED FROM AT GROTTE DEMOISELLES (SEE PREVIOUS BLOG)

THIS BIG GUY REFUSED TO GO IN THE WATER - SHE FINALLY GAVE UP AND JUST GAVE HIM HIS FISH

The downtown area of Valencia is lovely, filled with stately old buildings, cathedrals, streets paved with marble or tile, fountains, and many, many sidewalk cafes.  The Plaza de la Virgen contains, among other things, the cathedral of the holy chalice.  This is purportedly the chalice used at The Last Supper.  One of 3 major contenders (the other 2 are in Jerusalem and Genoa), this chalice is make of dark red agate and is reported to have the most likely claim to authenticity.  We didn't get to see it as they booted us out of the cathedral to lock up for the afternoon lunch and siesta time.

THE CHURCH OF THE CHALICE

Seeming out of place and yet strangely appropriate, right in the middle of the plaza surrounded by cathedrals is a giant fountain of Neptune surrounded by eight naked women.  Completed by a local sculptor, Silvestre Edeta, it represents the Turia River and its eight irrigation ditches.  The pigeons delight in playing 'king of the castle' and fighting over who gets to sit on Neptune's head.

NEPTUNE'S FOUNTAIN IN LE PLAZA DE LA VIRGEN

 In Spain, everything closes from around Noon to 2:00 for lunch, then remains closed until 4 or 4:30 p.m. for siesta time.  We decided to enjoy sangria and pizza at one of the sidewalk cafes and enjoy the surroundings before heading home for siesta.  This band of street musicians showed up as we were eating and were very entertaining to watch.  Unfortunately, just as we were finding Euros to tip them, the Policia pulled up and made them leave the square to the hisses and boos of the lunch patrons.  You can spot them behind their car on the left of the picture waiting for the guys to finish their first number.

ENTERTAINING STREET MUSICIANS - BEFORE GRUMPY POLICIA ARRIVED

In addition to gardens, beautiful buildings, tapas, sangria, and really inexpensive beer and wine, Valencia has one of the top 10 beaches in Spain.  Wide and very clean with warm clear water, this is where Ken liked to spend his afternoons doing what Pat and I call the 'booby walk'.  One afternoon he reported counting 110 topless women on his beach walk, or 220 boobies.  He is usually so exhausted by the time he gets back he has to lie down for a nap - perhaps this is the reason for siesta time in Spain. 

 

OUR WIDE CLEAN BEACH WITH FIRST HALF OF LAST SUPPER SAND SCULPTURE

Pat and I enjoyed monitoring the daily progress of the talented sand sculptors.  Here's the first half of The Last Supper in progress - hopefully they'll finish all twelve figures before we leave.  The sculpture representing Valencia is also quite impressive.  Notice the masts for the hundreds of sailboats in the marina behind the sculpture.  There is also a huge ferris wheel to the side, and many (overpriced) beach cafes to sit and enjoy the sights, along with tapas or paella and a cold beer or glass of wine.

VALENCIA SCULPTURE WITH SAILBOAT MASTS IN THE BACKGROUND.

The French Countryside

One of the delightful perks of exploring southern France is that you never have to go far to discover a picturesque little village.  Take any road and you'll spot a huge stone house, a castle turret, the spire of a cathedral or a roman ruin that needs exploring. We'd often start off for a destination half an hour away and arrive a couple of hours later as we'd always find something fascinating on the way.

SETE

Just a half hour drive southwest from Montpellier where the Rhone river meets the Mediterrean Sea is the lovely town of Sete.  The river bank is lined by lovely old apartment houses, cafes and restaurants, and of course a boat for every slip.  Just a block in are rows of shops (Pat and I both bought shoes for 15 Euro) and a large open park where you can sit and watch the flea market vendors, enjoy a beverage and listen to the laughter of the children on the ornately carved merry-go-round.

THE LOVELY TOWN OF SETE

A MERRY-G0-ROUND FOR EVERY TOWN

LE GRAU-DE-ROI

A half hour southeast of Montpellier lies the interesting beach town of Le Grau-de-Roi.  With wide sandy beaches, walking streets filled with small shops and stalls, seaside restaurants serving crepes and buckets of mussels accompanied by local wines, and catamarans offering harbour cruises, this town has something for everyone.  The town is small enough that you could do it all in a day, and we did.

HOMECOMING

THE VILLAGE LIGHTHOUSE

Old meets new in Grau du Roi.  After lunching on crepes and wine while looking at the boats sailing in and out of the harbour, we then hopped on a catamaran to view the modern condos being build all along the sea.

THE MODERN SEASIDE

SAND SCULPTOR AT WORK

The beach was fairly crowded for a mid-week in May.  As this is a tourist town with lots of rentals, I can just imagine how crowded it will be in the high season.

LAROQUE

Having missed our turn on the way to our lovely cottage in Montoulieu, we stumbled across the medieval village of Laroque and stopped to watch the people playing and fishing in the river. An absolutely stunning little village, it became one of our favorite stops on our way into Ganges to do our grocery shopping.

LAROQUE BY THE RIVER

 LAROQUE CONDOS - MEDIEVAL STYLE

We would stop to wander the narrow streets, ducking through low portals or climbing up the hillside to see what was around the next corner.

Of course, we could also stop at one of the cafes along the dam to try the local wines.  France has many, many good local vintages and it would take years to sample them all.  So many choices, so little time.

THE DUCHY OF UZES

Our landlady, Danielle, suggested we might want to travel to Uzes on a Saturday to experience the market.  Uzes was originally established in Roman times (1st Century) as an administrative center to oversee the building and operation of an aqueduct to bring water to Nimes.  Over the next few centuries it came under the control of Jewish Scholars and then the Archbishop of Narbonne, before becoming part of the royal peerage in 1088 (with a lot of history and bloody battle between, I'm sure).  In the 1600's the title of First Duke of France was bestowed on Uzes, and the Duke's castle is still reigning over the centre of the town.

THE DUKE'S CASTLE IN UZES

Uzes is known for it's market, which takes over the streets on Saturdays and goes on for many blocks in all directions.  Stalls filled with fresh produce, cured meats and local cheeses (and of course wines) line the streets.  Uzes has historically been known for its fabric makers, and silks and local woven goods are in abundance on market day.  Unfortunately our suitcases are filled to bursting, so we were unable to pick up any of the tempting fabrics, table cloths, bed covers, scarves, etc.

Pat did have her first encounter with one of the gypsy merchants in Uzes.  She stopped to buy a 5E watch, and when she handed the merchant a 10E note he showed her another watch that she had supposedly dropped and broken, so he wanted to keep the 10E.  It quite upset her as he was yelling at her in French and I was yelling back in English and calling for the Gendarmie while trying to grab her 10E out of his hand.  After some more yelling and gestulating we finally got her money back (but not the watch). As we were walking away we saw the woman who had supposedly witnessed Pat drop the watch knock another one off the table for the next unsuspecting tourist.  My poor sister is going to have to get a little more hardened in her travels.  Oh well, another adventure and another story to tell.  And just a little dark blot on the delightful Duchy of Uzes.

AN UNKNOWN VILLAGE

On our drive back from Uzes, we spotted some fairy tale like turrets evoking visions of Cinderella's castle off to the side and took a detour to explore a small village.  I'm not sure what it was called, but we spent a magical hour exploring it's streets - not another person in sight.

WHERE FORE ART THOU ROMEO

Every building was covered with colorful rosebushes.  The one above looked like it had been placed for climbing up to the balcony - an illicit nighttime visit perhaps.  The one below added beauty to a cracked and weathered doorway.

A ROSEBUSH FOR EVERY DOORWAY

The patinas on the buildings, shutters and doorways were spectacular and made me wish I was a talented artist.  I could see myself wearing a beret and sitting with an easel while trying to reproduce the colours in oil.

BEAUTIFUL PATINAS ON EVERY DOORWAY

BEST GARAGE EVER

At the start of our tour we were picked up by one of the locals who decided to guide us through the streets, waiting patiently as we stopped to take pictures and comment on the multi-coloured roses at every doorway.  A double for the old TV dog 'the littlest hobo', he led us out of town, then walked us around the outskirts to find our car.  Once he made sure we were safely back where we belonged, he gave us a final wag and returned to wherever he had come from.

PAT AND HER GUIDE - 'THE LITTLEST HOBO'

Finally finding a spot to snap a picture of the turrets that had drawn us to the village in the first place.  We think this might actually be a private estate.  I had to laugh when I checked my shot and discovered I had been 'photobombed'. A perfect end to our exploration of a magical unknown village.

PHOTOBOMBED!

Sur la Pont Avignon

The town of Avignon is mainly known for its bridge and the nursery rhyme/song we have all known since childhood.  But that is not the most interesting thing about the town.  Of far more historical significance is the Palais des Papes or Pope's Palace, one of the largest medieval gothic buildings in Europe and the centre of Christianity in the 14th century. 

Palais des Papes

Six popes ruled from the Pope's Palace, and each added something to the construction, making it often a disjointed and unwieldy design.  From 1309 to 1364, this building was being constructed, torn down and reconstructed, although the bulk of the edifice was actually done in a short 20 year time span.  Finally, in 1364, it was decided to move the papacy back to Rome although this move was fraught with politics and controversy and really wasn't finalized until 6 years later.

A model of the final design (?) - over 15000 meters squared

What a lot of people don't realize was that at one time there were actually 2 Popes - the Pope and the Antipope.  Although the papacy had been moved to Rome, the Pope in Avignon refused to resign and both ruled for some time.  Finally, the cardinals were fed up and fired both, appointing a 3rd Pope.  An amazing part of history of the Catholic church.

The square outside the Pope's Palace is bustling with tourists, and a lovely place to stop and listen to the many street musicians who take up residence there. 

The door into the Pope's Palace remains from ancient times.  The main doors were for the knights (or perhaps Swiss guard) and their horses, and the carriages of the Bishops, while the smaller door was used for the common folk entering and leaving the doors of the palace.

Over 10 km of ancient stone walls surround the city

Another interesting sight in Avignon is the more than 10 kms of thick stone walls built during the 13th century and surrounding the city.  Many of these walls were constructed on the rock itself, and narrow arches allow modern day traffic through.

Sometimes its difficult to see where man took over from nature in fortifying the Palace

One of the narrow entrances to the city

If there was any doubt as to the religious nature of the Palace, it is put aside by the many statues adorning the edifice.  An enormous gold Christ wearing his crown of thorns sits on one of the steeples, while a depiction of the crucified Christ surrounded by angles adorns a portico.

During the French Revolution the Palace came under seige.  Not only did the revolutionaries chop off the heads of the ruling class, but the 21 saints adorning these doorways into the chapel also had their heads removed.

This guy was spared.  This angel looked so real, right down to the feathers sticking out of his gilded wings, I almost stopped to say 'Bonjour'.

The side of this building has no windows.  Here's Ken trying to figure out what's real and what's not.  Hint -  the entire thing is one giant art piece.

And finally, here is a view of the city from the bridge.  Actually named the Pont St. Benezet, the Avignon bridge is now only four Roman arches spanning part of the River Rhone.  Constantly rebuilt during the 11th and 12th centuries, it kept falling apart as the River has an extremely fast current.  Now when you walk out onto it, it's crumbling rock and cement surrounded by construction cages.   The most interesting part was the ancient drawbridge which could be raised to block traffic into the town.  I could almost hear the hoof beats and the clatter of wagons seeking access to the town and the hospital just beyond it's gates.

Sur la pont, Avignon